Take me to church .. (thank you Hozier)

I heard that song just after I left the pilgrims mass yesterday in Santiago, whilst I have heard it many times, it was the first time I really heard, and actually listened to the lyrics ... mmmmm

I woke in the beautiful converted monastery after another night of very little sleep, and went to the pilgrims mass at the Cathedral, it was truly moving, the cathedral is spectacular, the service was deeply impactful, the sight of people from over the world, having completed the same journey, understanding challenges overcome, people embracing, just sharing a look, squeezing a hand, just knowing.

Pilgrims mass

I checked out of the monastery hotel, I actually felt a little funny staying there, odd, and into a new one on the main plaza, where to my delight the welcome pilgrim bagpipes could be heard, which was lovely, as I took the longest bath in ages, I had forgotten what smelling so clean was like, infact I had forgotten what I smelt like !%$!

Welcome bagpipes from hotel

I thought alot in that bath, about the moments that have meant the most, the service, the people along the way, I mainly thought about the impact that a six hour conversation had on me, on my list night of my camino, which was totally unexpected, and has consumed my thinking since.  Its funny how the magic of beautiful words, stories and song (even in its simplest form) can take over ones thoughts.

Magic in simplicity

I will miss this place.

x

It's a beautiful day ... (thanks Bono)

Touch me
Take me to that other place

I have finally made it to Santiago  - and yes I wept. 

(writing this backwards) ..

Arrival at the Praza do Obradoiro

Full of emotion, I am not sure what has driven that, whether it was a sense of accomplishment, a feeling that it has ended and I need to think about reality, seeing the joy of others as they arrived at the front of the cathedral.  Someone had shared to listen for the bagpipes, on the approach to the maybe this is what moved me.  I heard them playing as I was walking through the old town and new I was close.  As I approached it reminded me of a mix between Edinburgh and Petra in Jordan, walking towards the treasury through buildings like Edinburgh, I was touched by the amount of pilgrims, thanking each other, cuddling those they had not even met, taking photos, removing shoes and just pausing before they entered the tunnel to the Praza do Obradoiro.

Entering Praza do Obradoiro  within the Plaza arrival at the Plaza Santiago

The feeling was quite euphoric, on reflection, I have been on a calm high, (if there is such a thing) since last night.

I sat, I giggled, I cried, I saw new friends and strangers reactions, reactions as they entered, and was so happy for them, and so very moved by their expressions and what this has obviously meant to them.

I think, it will take a while for me to really understand what this moment meant.

The walk today

I started early, I wanted to walk alone, to spend time reflecting on my Camino so far, questioning I guess, maybe people have more expectations of what this would mean to me rather than what it has.  Has it meant anything? have I learnt anything? Did I need to? Did I want to?  I started off at 5.30 am, after only two hours sleep, after a long chat with a new friend, that also moved me, and made me think about a lot very differently.

So tired, after the lack of sleep, but actually start the day feeling wonderfully sated, from such a lovely night, and headed out ahead of the others.

I have an app that enables a random alarm .. and I woke to Beautiful Day (U2) .. I have never considered the lyrics so seriously before ...  they had such a wonderful meaning today, and I found myself reflecting on them all day.

This walk, felt the easiest of all the stages, even after the lack of sleep.  I stopped and washed with many pilgrims as tradition, in the river at Lavacolla, I felt very strange about this, and the chance to wash away everything wicked ;-) is that possible?

The walk from there felt hard … and I made my way to the ‘mount of joy’ (Monte del Gozo), 5km to go, where I took a break, and by coincidence.. as I took my shoes off, for a little rest, I could not believe I received texts at that precise moment from people I love, the phone call that followed for the next 2kms with folk who have the greatest bones, meant the world to me, as did a little sign, that reminded me of my new friend, and our marathon chat from the night before.

The night before

A wonderful night in a tiny hostel, with new friends, sharing memories and war stories, I seem to come out of it a lot better than most, 1 tiny blister probably my biggest concern, mind you my feet have been loved along the way.  Kurt and I plotted our Venice trip, only two nights, he has never been to Europe and Venice is on his bucket list, how could he not, and well who would not be happy to show someone new to Venice.

I wanted to walk today alone, to chat with many as I passed, but to also think about the last few days, hoping for an early night, and early start.  I had heard that Santiago is quite beautiful and so I want to spend as much time as possible there before Venice. Last night consisted of almost the same group from the night before, plus another couple from the States, we have passed each other many times over the last few days, but had never really spoken. I finished up chatting with others after mmm chorizo, bread, cheese, fish soup, fries, I seriously need vegetables and not just peppers.

After saying good night and good luck to others, I meet Jose, and we chat for hours ... generous, poetic, warm.. how do strangers enable thinking to be taken to another place?

It's a beautiful day ...

Buen Camino ..

Be brave, take risks, take a chance, trust, give yourself up

Charlotte – x

This time tomorrow ... Santiago ... (someone should write a song about that)

after a moody and sooky la la day two days ago, I got a very simple, but much needed ... put things into perspective from a 'Pink Charlie', which made me pull up and see reality ...  so whilst my last couple of days have been emotional, they have also been  more rational ....  I am definitely becoming less up tight and more relaxed doing this ...and less selfish.

crossed through from Arzua to Rua, (melide prior), I am now addicted to boiled octopus, the veggies are still lacking, but at least I feel less carb bloated.  The stay last night, was in a little village hotel with 15 rooms, of the 15 rooms, new found friends were in 6, + cheery Kurt and I with a room each, (we are walking together on and off, but we are booked into the same accomodation now through to Santiago).

It is funny how you dont see people for days, and then everyone collides.  The six included JP, and Michael the annoying Australian.  A night of sharing tales and what it has meant to us all, and how we plan on spending the next couple of days.

The way is a funny thing, no-one judges, no-one cares how old you are, what you do, what you look like, what you where, everyone is a complete equal, you kind of give yourself up to just being there for others, it was funny when we got onto a conversation about what we were carrying in our packs, most people are actually now carrying more for others, than for themselves.  It is also funny how it now seems so normal to just take someones foot, rub someones leg, pop strangers blisters, peel someones socks off, as you see them sitting with shoes off, offering and accepting now has become a norm, like offering to take a photo, (although cheery Kurt told me lastnight unless I addressed my ... 'here comes mr hairy legs', foot and shin rubs would become a thing of the past).

We walked today with a lovely Hungarian guy, whose walking partner died earlier this week while asleep in an albergue, he decided to continue, very heart warming.  (the movie the way became very real). The 'heart' brave stories you find along the way are inspirational, like blind Jamie who we also met today, completely blind and reliant on other pilgrims to guide him to Santiago, so extraordinarily courageous, both physically but more from a trust of others perspective.

I have decided to head back to Sydney for a while, I don't think what I wanted to do back in Australia is done yet, sharing thoughts with others helps brings such clarity.

One of the things, I know I need to do better, which I realised early on, and am now committed to, is staying in better contact with those that are dear to me, those that really matter, and I have been slack, I have been reconnecting with a lot of folk, funnily enough a lot through sharing these updates and looking forward to catching up with some of you over the next fornight.

This time tomorrow Santiago ...  then Kurt and I have decided to do a couple of days in Venice, before he heads back to the States ...

24 hours to go ....  20km .... 8 hours walking ...

x - be kind